Sail Chandelle

July 26 – August 1, 2023

Our race with Tangent from Kyuquot Sound to Esperanza Inlet was a close one, but we did win! It was one of our most outstanding sailing days to that point – perfect weather, calm seas and that wild blue green water which made for spectacular photos. After dropping our sails we wound our way through a narrow passage into Nuchatlitz, a uniquely situated bay at the northwest corner of Nootka Island. Nuchatlitz, which Alex began fondly calling “new chicklets,” is a provincial park, and a fantastic place to anchor in the middle of a bunch of low lying islands, which protect from the swell, while maintaining incredible views to the west, and providing much to explore. As Alex and I were deciding where to drop the anchor, we spotted a large black bear on a grassy beach!

That evening we took a dinghy exploration in and around many of the islands where there is old Indian Reserve land, as well as a handful of newer private homes. Tangent dined with us on Chandelle that night for a rendition of poutine with Alex’s baked fries and a veggie/mushroom gravy I whipped up. In the morning Tangent invited us over for a special breakfast treat – waffles! Later we took the paddle boards out to explore one of the outer islands, where we met many campers who had kayaked there for the week. We wandered the perimeter of the whole island, mostly across pebbly beaches and scrambling over a few rock outcroppings of dark black rock, with wild patterns of a lighter rock that almost looked like copper. As we went, Marie taught us some of her foraging expertise, gathering a handful of nodding onions and sea rocket, and we enjoyed a few ripe thimble berries on the spot.

Making our way down the coast we ventured into Nootka Sound, and tucked all the way up to the top of the narrow Ewin Inlet in Bligh Island. A lovely secluded spot, we spent a few idyllic days enjoying the pure, unspoiled nature while we waited for the right weather to sail around Estevan Point. Unfortunately, the day we left, our lovely morning sail turned into a slow slog of a motor against current to get around the peninsula. Our destination though made it all worthwhile.

Hesquiat Harbour is situated to the east of Estevan Peninsula, about half way down the west side of Vancouver Island. Surrounded by miles of sand and pebble beaches, sea caves and populated by sea otters, this large and shallow bay is a unique offering on this stretch of coast. And the biggest draw for visitors, at it’s north end called Boat Basin, is something else entirely. Hidden by the surrounding rain forest lies over 5 acres of gardens, a lake, and a number of beautifully constructed cedar buildings. It’s now known as Cougar Annie’s Garden, named for Ada Arthur who acquired the land with her family under the homestead act in 1915. She spent nearly 70 years cultivating the gardens, and allegedly killing dozens of cougars in that time – not only to protect her family, goats, and chickens but also to make extra money selling the pelts. The current owner and caretaker, Peter Buckland, has spent the last 50 years helping restore the gardens, and building over 20 sculpturesque buildings on the property using wind fallen cedar or driftwood from the beach and a large mill he can transport to the fallen tree.

Now in his late 70s, Peter arrived at Boat Basin for the first time in his 20s as a prospector in search of gold. He met Annie in 1968, then in her 70s, and recognizing her need for help around the property, returned often to lend a hand. After purchasing the property from her near the time of her death in the 1980s, he eventually established the Boat Basin Foundation which continues to fund the restoration and maintenance of the gardens, and has drawn in thousands of hours of volunteer assistance. Though he had a road built for access to the property from the other side of the island, most visitors arrive by float planes that land on Hesquiat Lake. We met a few hikers who’d arrived this way and hiked the length of the peninsula – they shared stories of their week with us including many bear and wolf sightings.

Approaching the site from the beach, a couple of hikers cabins and just one corner of Peter’s home are all that’s visible at the edge of the tree line. As we sat chatting with Peter and the hikers, in a small courtyard next to the beach, we were serenaded by a raven sitting above us in a tree and greeted by a mink scurrying up and down the rocks. Peter is a grand story teller, and started our tour with the tale of Annie and her family and the history of the property. We then started up the path leading into the forest, and Peter invited us into his home to sign the guest book. The front entrance opens to the kitchen and living area with a high apex ceiling and spiral staircase leading up to a 2nd story loft. The smell of cedar welcomed us to the cozy space he’s built with long wood counters, window seats, couches, and bookshelves all built in like on a sailboat, and surrounding a large barrel shaped wood stove in the middle.

Leading us out the back door he took us to a guest cabin with a giant tree stump entry way, a thick swinging door made from one large chunk of cedar, and inside a unique floor made from natural rounds of yew wood cemented in place. From here several paths continue deeper into the forest and the trail he led us on soon turned to a boardwalk, and we found ourselves admiring a 1200 year old cedar tree. Peter explained it wasn’t just logging that took out most of the older trees in this area – but tsunamis – this tree among several others are believed to have survived as their roots had grown around larger boulders and so didn’t get washed out as the wave subsided.

We eventually arrived at a clearing, which Peter explained is actually a natural bog – several unique shapes of driftwood, which he calls natural sculptures, adorn the entrance. And here lies Annie & her family’s home, now falling to ruins. The nature here is quick to take over, and so restoration and maintenance are constant chores or it all starts to slip back into the moss. Walking along the bog, our steps cushioned by the thick layer of heather “carpet,” winding around dozens of plants I can’t remember the names of, we could hear the unique call of the loons overhead.

As we reentered the woods, our path along the boardwalk of cedar shakes continued on and on and up and over a large hill to a small lake. Alex asked about the boardwalk’s construction and Peter explained it travels over 2,100 meters, and to date totals over 4,200 shakes and at least 24,000 nails. Not to mention the additional pillars in many places elevating it off the wet forest floor and handrails for the steps over steeper areas. Along either side of the path among the looming pines are native blackberry, huckleberry, and salal bushes, and numerous types of ferns. On a ridge at the side of the lake are two of the buildings that display Peter’s artistic vision for the property. His beautifully architectured designs and utilization of the natural surroundings have created two scenic lecture rooms for the purpose of education, with the goal of passing on the virtues of conservatism and rainforest ecology to the next generation.

From the lake we headed to a ridge where we came upon what appeared to be a large log cabin. It turned out to be a common space with a large kitchen and dining area for seven small sleeping cabins scattered along the ridge. He offered us a glass of water and invited us on to the back deck where he toke a much needed break from the tour while we admired the space and enjoyed the views out to the harbor. After showing us one of the sleeping cabins, each with built in window seats, elevated bed platforms, and a wood stove, he hiked us back down the road to his house, and let us loose onto a trail he calls “the walk of the ancients.” Continuing to wind our way through the rain forest, this trail wraps around at least a dozen giant cedar trees, aged 500-1000 years old.

Our tour of Cougar Annie’s Garden lasted several hours and covered many more details – but I don’t want to completely spoil it for anyone lucky enough to make the trip. You can find out more information for yourself on the boat basin website (boatbasin.org) and their instagram page (www.instagram.com/cougaranniesgarden) or email Peter with questions at boatbasinfoundationgmail.com!